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IP65 vs IP67: How to Choose the Best LED Screen IP Rating？
Water and dust are the silent killers of electronics. When procuring an LED display, your focus might be on brightness, resolution, and price. But choosing the wrong IP rating exposes your project to two critical risks: system failure from inadequate protection, or a wasted budget on over-specified equipment.
This guide will clearly explain IP ratings, clarify the crucial difference between IP65 and IP67, and reveal the common traps suppliers often don’t mention—empowering you to make a failsafe procurement decision.
Table of Contents
1. What is an IP Rating?
Before you invest in hardware, it is critical to understand what is IP rating and how it dictates the lifespan of your display.
IP stands for Ingress Protection. Defined by the international standard IEC 60529, this code classifies and rates the degree of protection provided by mechanical casings and electrical enclosures against intrusion, dust, accidental contact, and water.
To understand the meaning of IP65 or IP67, you simply need to decode the two numbers. The first digit represents protection against solids (dust), and the second digit represents protection against liquids (water).
The First Digit (Solids): Why "6" is Mandatory
For outdoor LED screens, the first digit is your first line of defense. This measures protection against solid foreign objects, ranging from fingers to microscopic dust particles.
Level 5 (Dust Protected): Ingress of dust is not entirely prevented, but it must not enter in sufficient quantity to interfere with the satisfactory operation of the equipment.
Level 6 (Dust Tight): No ingress of dust; complete protection against contact (dust-tight).
For any permanent outdoor LED installation, never accept anything less than a “6” (e.g., IP65).
While “Level 5” might sound sufficient, accumulation of fine dust inside an LED cabinet over time acts as a thermal insulator. This causes components to overheat and can lead to short circuits when mixed with humidity. If you are building for the outdoors, “Dust Tight” is non-negotiable.
The Second Digit (Liquids): Understanding the Scale
The second digit indicates the level of protection against harmful ingress of water. As the number gets higher, the testing conditions become more aggressive.
Level 4 (Splashing): Water splashing against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effect. (Basic rain protection).
Level 5 (Water Jets): Water projected by a nozzle (6.3 mm) against enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects. (Heavy rain and cleaning).
Level 7 (Immersion): Ingress of water in harmful quantity shall not be possible when the enclosure is immersed in water under defined conditions of pressure and time (up to 1m depth).
Indoor vs. Outdoor: The Failure Gap
This scale explains why you cannot simply move an indoor screen outside, even under a roof. Standard Indoor LED Screens are typically rated IP20 or IP31.
2/3: Protects against fingers or tools, but not dust.
0/1: Offers zero protection against water.
Exposing an IP20 screen to outdoor humidity or a single rainstorm will result in immediate catastrophic failure.
If you are based in North America, you might be more familiar with NEMA ratings. While not identical, they are comparable: IP65 is roughly equivalent to NEMA 4 (Watertight and Dust-tight). IP67 is roughly equivalent to NEMA 6 (Submersible).
However, in the global LED industry, the IEC “IP” standard is the universal language used by all top-tier manufacturers.
2. What is the Difference Between IP65 vs IP67?
Many buyers instinctively believe that “higher is better.” They assume that an IP65 vs IP67 LED display comparison always favors the latter. However, in the world of outdoor LED screens, “better” depends entirely on your application. Understanding the specific difference between IP65 and IP67 will save you budget and prevent potential thermal issues.
IP65: The "Rain Defender" (Industry Standard)
IP65 is the gold standard for permanent outdoor installations. The “5” indicates that the screen is protected against low-pressure water jets from any direction.
What it handles: Heavy rainstorms, snow, and direct cleaning with a water hose.
Best for: 90% of outdoor projects, including Highway Billboards, Wall-Mounted Advertising Screens, and Street Poles.
Verdict: If your screen is mounted high up on a pole or a wall, IP65 is exactly what you need. It provides robust protection without over-engineering the enclosure.
IP67: The "Submarine" (Extreme Protection)
IP67 takes waterproofing to the extreme. The “7” means the equipment can be submerged in water up to 1 meter deep for 30 minutes without harmful ingress.
What it handles: Temporary flooding, puddles, and accidental submersion.
Best for: Rental Floor Screens (where drinks might be spilled or rain pools on the ground), or installations in flood-prone zones.
Verdict: Unless your screen is sitting on the ground or in a potential flood zone, IP67 is often overkill for a standard video wall.
3. Why Higher IP Rating Isn't Always Better?
Here is the secret most suppliers won’t tell you: An IP67 cabinet is practically airtight.
While keeping water out is great, keeping air in can be a disaster. Outdoor screens experience massive temperature swings between day and night.
The Problem: When the air inside a fully sealed (IP67) cabinet heats up and cools down, pressure changes occur. This vacuum effect can suck moisture in through microscopic gaps, but the airtight seal prevents it from escaping.
The Result: Internal condensation forms (foggy screens) and eventually corrodes the PCB.
The Solution: The Waterproof Breather Valve
To solve this, professional outdoor displays (even high-end IP65 ones) utilize a Breather Valve (also known as a Waterproof Vent).
How it works: Think of it like Gore-Tex fabric. It stops liquid water molecules from entering but allows smaller water vapor and air molecules to pass through.
The Benefit: This balances the internal and external pressure, preventing condensation buildup while maintaining the necessary IP rating.
When buying an outdoor screen, don’t just ask for “IP65” or “IP67.” Ask if the cabinet design includes a Breather Valve to manage internal humidity.
4. Why "Front vs Rear" IP Ratings Matter？
This is the single most common reason for premature outdoor screen failure, yet it is rarely discussed in sales brochures.
The Secret: When a datasheet claims a screen is “IP65,” it is often telling only half the truth. In many cases, that rating applies only to the front of the display. The rear ip rating might be significantly lower, such as IP54 or even IP43. If you don’t distinguish between these two configurations, you risk installing a semi-protected screen in a fully exposed environment. Here is how to verify the spec and choose the right strategy.
When to Save Cost: The Front IP65 / Rear IP54 Strategy
You don’t always need maximum protection everywhere. In fact, choosing a lower rear rating can sometimes be a smarter engineering decision. In this configuration, the LED modules (Front) are fully sealed against rain, but the rear cabinet utilizes vents or fans that are only splash-proof (IP54).
Best Scenario: Wall-Mounted Screens or Facade Displays.
The Logic: When a screen is mounted tight against a concrete building, the wall itself acts as a massive shield. The rear of the cabinet is naturally protected from driving rain and wind.
The Benefit:
Lower Cost: It is cheaper to manufacture standard cabinets than fully sealed ones.
Better Cooling: Open vents allow fans to move air efficiently, which is great for front access LED screens that might not have much space for airflow behind them.
When to Upgrade: The Dual IP65 Requirement for Poles
If your screen is leaving the safety of a wall, you must upgrade your specification. In a “Dual IP65” configuration, both the front modules and the rear doors/connectors are rated IP65. The cooling system typically shifts to sealed heat sinks or protected air channels.
Best Scenario: Exposed Pillars, Street Poles, or Double-Sided Monuments.
The Logic: In an open field, rain doesn’t just fall down vertical; wind blows it horizontal and swirls it upwards. The back of your screen will get just as wet as the front. If you use a standard cabinet here, water will get in.
Don't Let Your Screen Become a "Vacuum Cleaner"
What happens if you use a Rear-IP54 screen on an open pole to save money? Disaster.
Rear-IP54 cabinets rely on active fans for cooling. If you install this in an exposed area without a wall behind it:
Direct Entry: Strong winds push rain directly into the fan vents.
The Vacuum Effect: The spinning fans create negative pressure, actually sucking rain mist inside the cabinet like a vacuum cleaner. Once that mist touches the power supply or receiving card, the system shorts out.
The Buyer’s Rule:
Back against a wall? Save your budget. Go with Front IP65 / Rear IP54.
Back exposed to air? Don’t gamble. Specify “Dual IP65” (Front & Rear) in your quote.
5. How UnifyLED Ensure LED Screen Waterproofing？
Achieving a true IP65 or IP67 IP rating isn’t just about slapping a sticker on the back of a cabinet. It requires a triple-layer defense strategy, starting from the microscopic PCB level up to the external cabling.
Here is a look inside our manufacturing process to see how we build screens that survive the elements.
Layer 1: The Module Level (High-Grade Potting)
The heart of your screen is the PCB board. If humidity touches the IC pins, corrosion begins immediately. To prevent this, we utilize a premium LED module potting process.
The Process: We pour a thick layer of high-conductivity silicone glue over the front of the PCB.
The Difference: Unlike cheap epoxy that turns yellow and cracks under UV sunlight, our silicone remains flexible and clear. This creates an airtight seal around every solder point, ensuring that even if water touches the module face, it cannot reach the circuitry.
Layer 2: The Cabinet Level (Automotive-Grade Sealing)
A waterproof module is useless if water leaks in through the service doors.
We treat our LED cabinets like car doors. Every opening—whether it’s the rear door, the module mounting points, or the fan vents—is lined with EPDM Rubber Sealing Rings.
Why EPDM? This material resists aging and maintains elasticity even in freezing winters or scorching summers. It ensures that when you lock the cabinet, you create a high-pressure watertight seal that lasts for years.
Layer 3: The Connection Level (The Crucial Gap)
This is where 80% of generic outdoor screens fail. You can have the best IP65 cabinet in the world, but if you plug a standard ethernet cable into it, the entire system is compromised. “A screen is only as waterproof as its weakest cable.”
At UnifyLED, we refuse to use standard data ports for outdoor gear. Instead, we use IP65-rated Aviation Plugs (professional waterproof connectors) for both power and data.
The Mechanism: These connectors feature a twist-lock mechanism with internal O-rings. Once clicked into place, the connection point becomes impervious to rain and dust.
The Result: A fully sealed chain from the power source to the LED diode, leaving zero entry points for moisture.
6. How to Choose the Right Rating for Your Project?
You now understand the technical differences between IP65 vs IP67, but translating that into a purchase decision can still be tricky.
As part of our ultimate outdoor LED screen buying guide, we have simplified the selection process. Stop guessing. Just find your project scenario in the list below to see the exact specification you need.
Permanent Highway Billboard (Exposed)
The Environment: Open fields, high wind, driving rain from all sides, no shelter.
Recommendation: Dual IP65 (Front & Rear)
The Verdict: Do not compromise here. Since the back of the screen is fully exposed to the elements, a Rear-IP54 cabinet will eventually fail due to water intake through the fans. You need a fully sealed “Dual IP65” system for “set-it-and-forget-it” reliability.
Building Wall Mount (Facade)
The Environment: Screen is mounted flat against a concrete wall.
Recommendation: Front IP65 / Rear IP54
The Verdict: This is the smart budget choice. The building wall naturally protects the rear of the cabinet. Paying extra for a waterproof rear door is unnecessary. Rear IP54 allows for better airflow and lower costs without sacrificing durability.
Rental Stage (Concerts & Events)
The Environment: Temporary setup, moved frequently, potential rain during events.
Recommendation: Standard IP65
The Verdict: For 99% of touring and events, standard IP65 is sufficient. It handles heavy rain during a show perfectly. IP67 is usually too heavy and expensive for standard hanging rental walls.
Interactive Dance Floor / Poolside
The Environment: People walking on it, potential for spilled drinks, standing water, or proximity to pools.
Recommendation: Must be IP67
The Verdict: No exceptions. Gravity works against you here. Liquids will pool on the surface. You need the “Submarine” protection of IP67 to ensure that a spilled cocktail doesn’t short out the dance floor.
Coastal or Beachfront Installation
The Environment: Within 5km of the sea, high humidity, salty air.
Recommendation: IP65 + Anti-Corrosion Coating
The Verdict: Water isn’t your only enemy here; salt is. Standard IP65 keeps water out, but salt mist can eat through standard aluminum. You must request a Conformal Coating on the PCB and a marine-grade powder coating on the cabinet.
7. Conclusion
Selecting the perfect IP rating for your outdoor LED screen is not merely about chasing the highest number on a spec sheet; it is a strategic balance between achieving robust protection, ensuring efficient heat management, and maintaining cost effectiveness. While IP65 serves as the reliable standard for the majority of permanent outdoor billboards and IP67 offers specialized defense for ground-level applications, choosing the wrong configuration can lead to either immediate water damage or long-term overheating issues.
To truly protect your investment, you must look beyond the brochure—always demand a third-party IEC 60529 Test Report to verify that the “Dust Tight” and “Waterproof” claims are backed by laboratory data. If you are still debating between IP65 vs IP67 or are concerned about hidden risks like the “front vs. rear” trap, contact UnifyLED’s engineering team today for a free project assessment; we will help you pinpoint the exact protection level your specific environment requires, ensuring you build a display that lasts without overspending on unnecessary specs.
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